What to look for in a custom suit
Ultimate Guide To Buying A Custom Suit Online (EASY Step By Step Process)
I said so for today's video you're gonna
want to take notes you're gonna want to
save this video because I'm going to go
into tons of detail I'm gonna give you
everything you need to know to buy the
perfect suit online rule number one to
buying a custom suit online make sure
that buying a custom suit online is the
right choice for you what I mean by this
is you have options first up
off-the-rack suits this is the most
common style of suit we see in box
stores and specialty menswear stores
these are pre-made suits in a variety of
different sizes a variety of different
cuts and if you look if you have time
you can actually find something that
fits you reasonably well can sometimes
get adjusted to fit you incredibly well
but I understand if you need a suit
today this is probably the best option
for you so why go custom because you
care about fit you care about the style
and you care about fabric so the fit
guess what if it's custom it's only made
to fit one person you if you're tall if
you're short if you're big if you're
small if you're a combination of those
guess what custom suits don't care
they're gonna be built exactly to fit
your measurements and your measurements
alone or if you're really particular you
have seen this fabric and you want that
particular sports jacket you want that
suit in that fabric guess what
custom is the way to go because you're
just simply gonna be able to choose the
fabric then get the exact style again
your particular you want peak lapels you
want hacking pockets you want you know
an inside really unique lining you can
get it when you go custom the second
thing to know about custom suits is it
is a process you can't get that suit
same day in fact this can be a
multi-week process they're making this
thing from scratch and understand that
sometimes there are multiple fittings
you're gonna have to get measurements
this is something especially the first
time you do it then it's gonna take a
bit of extra time but if you care about
getting the exact style you want the
exact fabric the fit spot-on then the
process is definitely worth it now let's
talk about measurements when you're
going in to get a custom suit guys you
can expect sometimes over 50
measurements to be taken of your body
yeah this is huge
because most of us will refine jeans to
measurements the inseam and the waist or
we're looking at a shirt small medium
large but here's the thing when you're
getting something custom they are gonna
measure
all parts of your body from your neck to
your chest to your torso they're gonna
take your height they're gonna take your
weight but they're also gonna look at
the way that you stand how you basically
do your arms hang all of these details
are going to go into taking a
two-dimensional fabric and then weaving
it and building it into a work of art so
the key point here is make sure whoever
you're working with to get this custom
suit done that they're taking all the
right measurements and that they're
taking them correctly a lot of places
they'll let you take your own
measurements if you're going to do this
make sure that you measure twice so they
only have to cut once
because one of the worst things you can
do is send in the wrong measurements I
prefer if you can actually have someone
measure you and even better if they've
got a block system so a block system is
actually where they've got pre-made
garments after they take your
measurements they have you try these
garments on now what these garments are
telling them is actually okay this is
how it would fit on him we already know
his measurements but what does he think
about the fit of these trousers let's
say in the thigh area because fit is
very subjective one man likes a closer
fit another man likes a very loose fit
and another thing that a lot of people
don't think about when you go in to get
measured or you measure yourself make
sure that you are wearing your best
fitted clothing now guys if you're a fan
of real men real style you probably know
that I started off as a custom clothier
I designed over a thousand suits I used
to own an online clothing business so I
understand this business through and
through and that's why I'm excited to
bring you today's sponsor Indo Chino
I've talked about these guys before but
did you know when I started my first
business they were a competitor I always
looked at him I was very impressed
always by their website the way that
they were serving their customers and
these guys have continued to exceed my
expectations everything I'm wearing in
this video is made by indochina these
guys nailed it I was lucky enough to be
able to go into one of their Atlanta
showrooms where I was able to look at
all the different fabrics they had there
I was able to look at all the different
options and I got measured right there
and designed a beautiful suit the suit
you see me wearing right now they took
my measurements accurately and they use
that block system and I can tell you
that makes a huge difference
I was basically to get one of the best
fitting suits I
her own and I've owned lots of suits
costing thousands in thousands of
dollars
guess what endo Chino starts at 399
gentlemen this is a steel first up I
would highly recommend that you go into
one of their shops and get measured but
if you can't guess what you could enter
your own measurements and they will work
with you to make sure you get the
perfect fit I will get into options
later in this video in detail but I will
tell you I did some special things with
this suit had a lot of fun you want to
see I'm gonna reveal it right now check
this out
for my Canadian friends and anyone that
knows the history of endo Chino it
started out he was a Canadian company I
love a company that is just full of
go-getters and I met with the Atlanta
team such a great group of people and I
sort of said it but I want to be a
little bit more clear there are a lot
more than just suits so you want to get
a custom shirt they've got you covered
tons of great fabrics at an amazing
price you want a custom vest and I can
tell you the vest is one of the hardest
garments to get to fit your body
correctly absolutely love this vest and
the fit is spot-on so if your hard to
fit you want a unique fabric that's
gonna help you stand out from the crowd
if you want to go with a unique design
so that you can design a suit that's
gonna be unlike any the world has ever
seen guys you want to go over Indo Chino
to get started Jets and to save $30 on
your suit use the link down in the
description of today's video along with
the code RM RS to save money on your
first suit and Indo Chino now this next
step to getting the perfect suit online
is often overlooked but incredibly
important and that is make sure the
people or the team or the person you're
dealing with has good communication
skills because guess what you have this
vision of what you want this custom suit
to look like how you want it to fit and
if they don't ask you the right
questions they're gonna build you a
monstrosity they're gonna go they're
gonna think oh this guy wants the modern
slim fit you thought you're gonna get
something a little bit looser but you
know that would fit your big build
little sudden you get the suit and
you're like oh my gosh what happened
here communication is key so make sure
that they've got a great communication
skills that they speak your language
that's what we're looking to do is
reduce mistakes
next up know what you want so many guys
going to buy custom and they do not know
what they want and if you run into a
Salesman or you work with someone that
really has your best interests in mind
and can direct you that's great but that
doesn't happen all the time
you want to make sure you're not led
astray not you know on purpose but that
person doesn't he can't read your mind
so you want to make sure you've got laid
out exactly what you need if you just
graduated law school and you're taking
that first job over in downtown Chicago
you're gonna be at that top law firm if
you're gonna be wearing a suit daily
find out what they wear to the law
office but by knowing that you'll be
able to build the wardrobe you need but
maybe you need sports jackets maybe you
need Aude trousers and it's gonna make
everyone's job easier when you can give
more specific information about what you
need now that being said this next point
incredibly important that is have one
garment made at a time and I'm talking
one suit made one shirt made one vest
made why don't you want to have like
five suits or ten shirts made because
what if this the first time they're
making it you want to make sure they
nail the fit you think that hey I wanted
to be able to put two fingers right in
here and the guy who was measuring you
thought that you didn't want to be able
to put anything but you don't want to
actually get ten shirts that are made
that way because that guy may argue he
may say hey no no this is what you asked
for and then all of a sudden you've got
an issue ask for one shirt ask for one
jacket ask for one set of trousers and
you should be able to go through
multiple fittings to be able to get
exactly what you want on the fit and
that takes us right to our next point
fittings so fittings are natural
especially when you're just starting off
your first garment you could expect to
have one two fittings as they work to
get it perfect this shirt yeah it may be
a little bit too loose a little bit too
tight in and around the neck maybe you
want the sleeves a little bit longer
this is when they're gonna take note of
this they're gonna say hey I'd like a
little bit slimmer on the sleeve and
they will be able to take it in and make
those adjustments the key point here is
that they not only make the adjustments
but they also adjust your pattern you
want to ask about this because when they
adjust your pattern then this is
something they'll be able to replicate
the garment you don't want them to
replicate a mistake you want to make
sure that if you have those adjustments
made they adjust the pattern and then
all your future suits all your fruits
features sports jackets guess what
they're gonna fit perfectly because you
did the work up front so now let's get
into the details yeah we're gonna go
deep down the rabbit hole first up
talking about suit fabric choice so
there are four things when you're
looking at fabric do you want to pay
attention to so first up the color if
this is your first custom suit hi
I recommend you go with a simple solid
Navy charcoal gray medium gray something
that you're gonna wear again and again
you may see an attorney I've already got
a couple suits like that in my wardrobe
but you have a custom suit like that
in your wardrobe the answer you probably
know and this is why you want to start
it's all about the fit and we can change
things up on the style but initially
your first custom suit go simple now if
this is your first custom suit you've
already made a few custom suits then
feel free based off your knowledge and
what you know about menswear to start
having a little bit more fun now let's
talk about patterns so patterns again
this is something initially no pattern
but you could if you really wanted to
bring in a pattern to start off with
maybe look at a herringbone a
herringbone weave in a solid fabric
actually is not very noticeable until
you get up close it adds a bit of depth
gives a little bit of a little bit of
weight to the fabric so it is gonna be a
thicker heavier fabric but I think it
looks absolutely beautiful you can also
look at bring in and we see windowpanes
we see checks we also see pinstripes
these when you start to bring these in
understand these are not your
interchangeable pieces these are going
to be much more memorable these are
gonna be suits that stand out but if you
already got five suits you've got six
suits why not bring in a pinstripe
pinstripes all about business
windowpanes checks these understand are
gonna be much more casual
now what about small repeating patterns
like Birds Eye shark-tooth nails head I
think that those are perfectly fine but
they are going to be a bit more casual
however if you already have like three
or four suits in your wardrobe I really
like bringing in something like this it
adds a bit of texture at the same time
from a distance it actually looks solid
and people won't see the pattern till
they get up close now something like
chalk stripe this is maybe if you
already got nine suits I maybe would
make an attempt but this is something
that really a big pattern like that
really is a distinctive pattern it can
really stand out if you know what you're
doing but it's not going to be a suit
that you can wear more than once or
twice a month next up let's talk about
materials and 99% of you want to go with
100% wool is where it's at you're gonna
see the word worsted we'll all this
simply means is that the wool has been
woven into a tight thread and it is
perfect for suti beautiful drape even
cheap worsted wolves have really come a
long way now what you don't want to go
with is a blend and a blend is where
they put in a little bit of polyester
sometimes 50
50 with wool basically because they're
using this material it is next to
nothing in cost and it also just never
looks as good now what about silk
what about cotton and what about linen I
think that when blended with wool you
can get some amazing options but don't
do this with a fur suit because if you
get your first suit it's got 50% linen
or you know it's gonna require more
upkeep it also could wrinkle more I do
think there in the summer these are
interesting options but for most guys
just starting off go with worsted wool
and now let's talk about fabric cost and
this is important because custom suits
the price the final price is often based
off of what was the cost of the material
so your fabric it takes about three and
a half yards for an average custom suit
this right here can range anywhere from
a few dollars per yard to over a
thousand dollars per yard depending on
the fabric depending on what mill it
comes from what is in it so if it's wool
versus polyester versus a silk blend
versus a very rare wool they've had
actually fabrics woven with a little bit
of gold in them yes and those can cost a
lot of money so understand that when a
tailor's doing this for him it's about
the same amount of work that goes into
it it's really about the raw materials
and how much those cost so if you want
to go with something really rare if you
want to go with something really
high-end something that they don't they
don't make that much of that is gonna
drive the cost up substantially however
if you go with the material that they
have plenty of that's a staple that's
classic you're gonna find that the cost
is gonna be driven down and let's talk
about the super number so you see super
80s super 120 super 220 understand that
none of this is regulated so one
company's super 120 could be in there
the company's super 220 but they do
understand at least the people in sales
that a lot of people view these like
megapixels and cameras so whatever you
see a camera with a lot of megapixel
people want to go buy that cuz it's the
newest and greatest guys don't fall for
it any super like 100 any super 120 is
going to be just beautiful perfectly
fine I would expect in general super 2
20s at that range right there to be
really nice and in general you will see
the cost go up as the super number does
now let's talk about design and my
advice to you is kiss keep it simple
silly seriously I've got two dozen suits
right here and I will tell you the ones
I wear the least or the ones that I got
way
overcomplicated on the design don't do
an eclectic here eclectic there changing
this up to be different all of a sudden
you've got something which is a
monstrosity
so when you're looking at the lapels
yeah I went with peak right here I had a
little bit of fun but this is pretty
much one of two things I had fun on this
jacket but most people notch lapels are
gonna be perfectly fine peak lapels are
gonna be a little bit more formal if you
want to go with shawl lapels that is
very rare and you see it more on Black
Tie but in general notch lapels are
gonna be fine how many buttons in the
front two in general ninety-five percent
of jackets out there are to button oh
you can go with the double-breasted guys
if this is your first custom suit don't
go with a double-breasted suit because
you don't own any double-breasted suits
and you don't normally wear them don't
buy something that again is gonna be
really pushing you but there are many
things you can change up by the way
which nobody will see I talked about my
inner lining on my jacket this is where
you can have a lot of fun or it can be
something small like the back of the
jacket a lot of people whenever they buy
something off the rack they got to go
with the single vent I highly recommend
you go with the double vent it doesn't
seem like much but this makes a huge
difference in the way the jacket fits
and the way it flows whenever you're
walking you can also maybe look at the
buttons right here make sure you go with
working buttons you may want to go with
the contrast stitching right here I want
for a little bit maroon right there
contrast stitching is another great
little thing you can do change up the
buttons maybe change up a few things
here there but guys overall keep it
simple and the same thing with the
trousers guys keep it simple so if you
don't normally have pleats on your
trousers don't buy pleats now if you
don't normally cuff your trousers go
with straight at the bottom hem one
thing I highly recommend is go with
suspender buttons on the inside nobody's
gonna see it you may never even use them
but you always have them there is an
option if you want to buy suspenders now
if you have the option I always
recommend you buy an extra set of
trousers most times when a suit is
damaged it is the trousers but if you've
got two pairs of trousers you've got
that suit and this is your go-to suit
guess what you've got something that's
gonna last a lot longer just make sure
when you send them out to the cleaners
that you send them out as a set and if
you get two sets of trousers consider
getting one of them with side taps so
get rid of the belt loops instead it's
simply gonna cinch up on the sides I
absolutely love this look very unique
but something I wouldn't recommend if
you only have one pair of trousers
because if you
gain or lose weight it can be an issue
now what about vests I absolutely love
it and I recommend that if you want to
add some pizzazz to your look go with a
contrasting vest or maybe go with the
matching vest go for the three-piece
suit look if you wear the suit again and
again but I said it this early and I
want to say it again the vest is one of
the hardest garments to get fit so make
sure that if you're buying this custom
that you get this adjusted if it does
not fit correctly because the vest is
one of those things there's not really
much room to give or to loosen up and
you want to make sure that you get
exactly what you're looking for most of
us when you go and you buy them off the
rack even if you find the right fit
you're stuck with the style that they
give you when you go custom you can get
styles that you can only dream of and
this is where I do like to have a little
bit of fun you notice right here four
buttons on each side went double
breasted double breasted vests very rare
and I knew that they're also incredibly
hard to get fitted properly so when I
have the chance to get one custom from
Indo Chino you bet I jumped on it and I
absolutely love it now one of the
contrasting fabric that I felt worked
really well with the brown because it's
got a little bit of brown in it and
there's another trick when you're
looking at maybe matching things see if
you can actually find a fabric that has
a little bit this one a little bit of
that repeating Brown so because it has
the brown I knew it would naturally
match with the brown suit now what about
custom shirts well if they could make
suits if they can make vests you bet
they can make custom shirts and so for
me it's an easy choice when they've got
your measurements that's what I like
about choosing one manufacturer one
company to go with keep it simple silly
with the design but have a little bit of
fun I do like to simply go with a
classic color as you guys know I love
white and blue shorts it's just my I
mean come on it just works with
everything I have but there are so many
options you can have when it comes to
the style of the collar and that's where
you can have so much fun you can keep
the color simple but you can change up
the style and if you get that fit right
that shirt is gonna look amazing on you
alright so it's been a couple weeks you
get the suit you get the shirt you get
the vest you get the trousers now let's
talk fittings so this is a very natural
part of the process especially the first
time you buy from anyone that's making
something custom you are gonna want to
have some adjustments made now I can
tell you what Indo Chino sent me is
spot-on I'm not gonna have anything
adjusted maybe you know that shirt right
here I will adjust the button that is it
that's what
the whole block system but most time if
you're using someone that doesn't use a
block system you're gonna have to get
some fittings done but understand
adjustments are just part of the process
and so when you're going through these
fittings it's best if you can go in and
actually get them to look at it and make
the adjustments so that they can update
your profile your pattern you want them
to make you that one shirt that one pair
of trousers that one jacket that one
vest and then based off of the
adjustments you make they will then make
the rest of your order because if you're
ordered 10 shirts if you ordered five
suits you don't want to get five that
are the wrong size or too tight in the
chest some places they'll have you
actually go if you buy it online they'll
have you go to a local tailor so you
want to call around make sure that that
person can adjust the suit if it's too
much if it's a major adjustment you're
probably gonna have to ship it back to
them along with photos along with what
needs to be done but that is why
communication is so key and I feel it's
underrated
because when it comes to the adjustments
this is when the magic happens you go
from really good to friggin amazing so
at this point you've now got a perfectly
fitted suit you've got a great-looking
shirt you've got a good-looking vest you
have an outfit which makes you feel like
a million bucks what do you do now wear
it gentlemen the most expensive clothing
you'll ever own it's the clothing you
never wear wear it so many times that
eventually you have to go get more I
know when I dress sharp even if I'm at
home if I've got a big call if I've got
a big meeting I dress better why do I do
this because it puts me in the zone it
makes me feel better and studies have
shown that actually dressing the part
you feel better you perform better the
scientific term is called in clothes
cognition and this is when your clothing
has an effect on how you see yourself
and how you perform it's real gentleman
so suit up dress sharp and become the
man you know yourself to be
so what video to watch next how about
custom versus off-the-rack suits in this
video I break out the advantages and
disadvantages of each type of suit
